From Luang Prabang we went to Phonsavan on a main dirt road planning to go straight there and make some detours for the way back. Just before we got to Phoxai there was a string across the road by an army checkpoint manned by 3 men and a girl, one in uniform, with guns.N19 57 07.4 E102 26 05.7 They said first that we had to turn around, and go get a permit"in Luang Prabang" to proceed. Then they told us we should go with them to Phoxai to get a permit.
Then they decided that they could write a permit for us, for a fee. They asked 50000kip each, we tried to negotiate but they wouldnt take less. So maybe half an hour it took us to get through. Justin went ahead and I had to keep out of the dust, my gps was in my pocket and when the road went right, to go south to the ferry, I stayed on the track and went several km east before checking the gps. I guessed justin went the other way, so I went back to the junction. It got more interesting here, more of a track than a road.There was a bridge by a ford, with a little girl holding a piece of string across it, she wanted too much, so I said 3000kip, that was ok, better than getting wet boots.There was another bamboo pole across the road, by a village, again they asked 50000kip. I said no, but ended up paying 5000, and was asked to sign a bit of paper. I was glad to see justins name on the paper too, that meant he must be ahead of me now. There was no hint of officialdom there. A few more km and I was at the river, justins KTM was on the other side.